Unique Torii Gate for Your Beautiful Garden

Torii gate overview

The torii gate is a traditional Japanese portal that marks the boundary between the everyday world and sacred Shinto shrine grounds..

It symbolises you are entering a holy place for kami (natural spirits or Gods).

They generally consist of two vertical pillars and two top cross beams. They are often painted bright vermilion.

Torii gate in the garden

In Shinto and Buddhist traditions, the colour vermilion represents the power of fire and the sun. Additionally, it’s believed to repel evil spirits, bad luck, and disease. Moreover, before passing through the torii gate, visitors traditionally bow once.

Making a torii gate upper cross  beam

In the first instance I made the torii gate top cross beam hollow to reduce the overall weight.

I then cut the two side panels to shape using 150x40mm planks. Additionally, we used 9mm plywood to cover the top and bottom. Clamps held everything together until the glue dried.

Fitting the sub cross beam for a torii gate

I fitted the lower cross beam side panels to the main crossbeam.

Next, I glued the assembly under the top beam.

Gluing and clamping the torri gate top cross beam assembly

I attached the lower cross beam to the main crossbeam by clamping it in position under the top cross beam with glue

I then began cutting the support poles for the torii gate.

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Completed torii gate top cross beam

The completed top cross beam.

For simplicity, the assembly will slot down onto the support poles through the two holes in the bottom.

assembling on the ground to test part fitting

Here I’ve assembled the now undercoated top cross member with the support poles.

A rebate cut in the poles allowed the lower cross member to slide through.

Side view of top cross beam showing layout

For clarity, I’ve included this detailed side view of the torii gate to show how all the elements fit together.

Concreting torii gate support posts into the ground

Eventually, after painting the torii gate parts vermillion (Dulux Olga Sands), I set up support posts ready for concreting into position in the garden.

The completed torii gate in the garden

Following tradition, I painted the top cross member and the lower post sections black, torii gate style. Additionally, we positioned two small Chinese lions on either side.

How to Craft Stunning Oriental Style Ceramic Finials

Outdoor finial material considerations

These fantastic oriental style ceramic finials I made for a Japanese bridge in the garden. In 2014 I made plaster pieces, but they were unsatisfactory. What material would endure outdoors for these ornaments?

Recently, after a trip to Japan, I realized that if I could make the finials using ceramics instead of another material they would basically last forever. The following photos show the process I followed to make the Japanese finial.

Description of mould Making Process

Firstly I designed the oriental style finial in CAD from which a 3D printer STL file was saved. After printing the STL file I had a 3D model from which I could make the plaster mould. The mould was made using plaster of Paris in four sections.

Once the mould was finished it was assembled and had porcelain slip poured in. After about half an hour the plaster absorbed some moisture from the slip causing it to set and shrink slightly. The remaining slip was then poured from the mould leaving a 3mm shell inside. The mould was carefully disassembled and the greenware finial was removed. This process was repeated twelve times.

After cleaning up the greenware they were bisqued in the kiln to 980 degrees. The following day, after cooling down, they were glazed with Iron Lustre, Vintage Gold and Art Deco Green. They were then fired to 1220 degrees. The finish was spectacular. They looked fantastic.

The finials were then attached to the Japanese bridge as shown in this post.

Photos of the mould making process

Here the 3D printed model of the oriental finial has been divided into four quadrants and flanges with alignment keys have been set on one quadrant.

This process was repeated for the other three quadrants.

This photo shows the completed four plaster mould sections. These will now be joined together in preparation for casting.

Here the porcelain slip has been poured into the mould. It is just slightly overfilled. After about 20 minutes the level drops slightly as the plaster absorbs the water from the slip. Just top it up a bit to get it full again.

After the slip is poured from the mould you are left with the shell of the finial inside. It shrinks slightly due to the water absorption but this makes it very easy to remove.

The process was repeated twelve times.

Here the first mould section has been removed revealing the casting of the finial. The other sections are carefully separated and the greenware finial is removed from the mould.

Here are the twelve finials awaiting cleaning up before being bisqued.

After bisque the finials are glazed prior to final firing.

After being fired to 1220 degrees the finials have come out of the kiln looking brilliant!

When the finials were cast in the mould there was a little shrinkage as the water evaporated from the slip. Again, after the bisque firing they shrank a little more. There was even more shrinkage after the final firing. Doing a rough calculation comparing the original 3D printed model to the completed ceramic finial there was about a 15% shrinkage as shown in the photo below.

Comparison of completed finial with original

Japanese Bridge

This Japanese bridge was constructed from timber. The arch was built using the same technique as the large Japanese bridge that was built in February 2014. This bridge makes a striking decorative addition to a terraced rock garden. It blends with the Japanese/Chinese theme of the landscaping.

The primary difference with this bridge is that the bespoke finials were made from ceramics. The earlier bridge used plaster of Paris for the finials and unfortunately these deteriorated and had to be replaced with steel caps. Being exposed to the weather over several months destroyed the plaster. The new ceramic versions on this bridge will be much more tough and won’t be affected by changes in the weather over time.

Ceramic Finials

A detailed description of the manufacture of the ceramic fiinials can be found on this post. They are attached to the bridge posts using silicone sealer.

Floral Security Door

Completed Security door

This Inner West home in Sydney has beautiful lead light windows in the front door which the owner wanted incorporated into a security door. The main floral motif of the lead light door panel was used as a starting point for the design.

Once the design was completed and approved by the client work started making all the intricate curves from 12mm solid steel bar. The small leaves were challenging to make because of their varied and tight radius curves. There were four separate bending operations needed to make them. Once all the parts were finished they were assembled in a jig on the work bench before being welding together.

The completed door captures the sinuous flow of vines and leaves weaving up from floral blooms.

Laying out design
Laying out the design
Lead light panel
Lead light front door panel

Original front screen door
View looking out from house

Security Door Conversion

Completed conversion

A major renovation on an Inner West semi led the owner to want to replace the existing steel security door. To keep costs down we suggested to retain the existing installation but replace the bars with a new design that reflected the design of the front door.

The front door had a circular glass window surrounded by rectangular glass panels. The door was carefully measured along with the security door and a new design drawn up to reflect the front door.

The existing security door and surround was removed and taken to the workshop where the bars were cut out to accommodate the new design. The frame of the existing security door had been powder coated and this all had to be removed before any work could commence. A quote to get the frame sand blasted was extremely excessive so it had to be done by hand. Tedious but effective.

After the new design had been set up in the frame and welded in place the door was cold gal primed before applying a second primer coat and then two top coats to complete the build.

Cutting out existing bars from frame
Cleaned frame with new design jigged in
Original security door showing open front door

Bespoke Security Door

View of security door from inside house

This Sydney Inner West semi had an unattractive screen door the owner wanted replaced with a steel security door. The front door had an interesting round glass window and glass panels in the form of a cross so we decided to make the design of the security door reflect that of the existing front door.

After carefully measuring the front door a design was developed that would integrate with the front door. It was an uneventful build as we have done several of this style of door in the past.

After laying out the design and welding it together the door was painted and taken to the house and installed. The new door made a massive improvement to the look of the entrance to the house.

New security door with same pattern as front door
The original aluminium mesh screen door

Window Bars Upgrade

ODEON design on double window

The new owner of a ground floor Sydney apartment was very unhappy with the standard window security bars that had been installed by the previous owner. We were approached to make something a little more stylish. Several design options were presented to the owner and it was decided to go with our Art Deco ODEON design.

To simplify the build and avoid putting more holes in the aged brickwork it was suggested to keep the original steel frames and attaching points and simply remove the old vertical bars and replace them with the ODEON design.

The old bars were removed and taken to the workshop where the old bars were cut out. The new design was assembled and jigged into the old frames and welded together.

Because of the exposed position we decided to have the window bars hot dip galvanised to ensure long term resistance to corrosion. Once back from the galvanisers the bars were reinstalled into their original position to the delight of the owner.

Single window ODEON bars ready for fitting to frames
Original double window security bars were not very attractive

Window bars after galvanising
ODEON design on single window

Ashton Screen Door

View from inside house

Ashton Screen Door Silhouette

Several years ago we refurbished the front gate and driveway gates for a client. We also made some matching double side gates for the side of the house. The client was very happy with these past projects so recently we were contacted again to replace an ugly screen door with a new Ashton screen door with the same style as the previous work we did.

The Ashton Style is made from 16mm square steel with the aluminium insect screen secured by a 13mm steel framework attached to the main frame using 5mm countersunk stainless steel screws.

As is usual with older homes the doorway was not square. It was tilted ~8mm from the vertical which, although it seems a tiny amount, becomes glaringly obvious when fitted with a rectangular frame that is square. Building a crooked frame to compensate for this requires a lot of patience and care. It can be quite stressful once a door is made and being installed wondering if it will fit as planned. It is a great feeling when everything is bolted in position and all the gaps on both sides are uniform.

Old screen door

Original Screen Door

Custom Screen door

New Ashton Screen Door