Temporary assembly with staples to mark out dowel joints
Carrying on from the
previous post on the cabinet construction the side panels were cut in a jig so they matched the bevel on the curved front panel. Once they were completed the top, bottom and intermediate shelves were cut with a radius that matched the inside radius of the front panel.
The completed parts of the cabinet were assembled in the original moulding form and held together with staples so the position of all the dowel joints could be determined. The cabinet was then disassembled and the holes for the dowels drilled. Since none of the joints were 90 degrees a special drilling jig was made so the holes could be drilled at 77 degrees.
Once all the dowel holes were drilled the parts were glued and pushed together. This proved a difficult task because of the tapered sides. Nothing could be pushed in squarely and, because of the angle of the sides, it was difficult to apply a force in the required direction for the joints to close. Eventually everything came together and the frame could be clamped and left to dry.
The above steps are illustrated below.
Side panel ready for routing using the front panel template.
Side panel after routing the 45 degree edge to match the front panel.
Cutting the curved top, bottom and shelf panels with a router
Drilling dowel holes with a 77 degree drill jig
Looking down the drill guide to align it with the mark for the dowel position
Cabinet panels drilled and dowelled ready for assembly.
Assembling the cabinet frame
Clamped and glued cabinet frame
Once the glue has dried the drawers need to be made along with the top splash board and back panel. The next cabinet post will deal with these items and the fitting of the handles, legs and marble top and splash board. The completed side cupboard can be seen on this page.